The Sienna Maker jacket is the newest release from Closet Case Patterns and I was a pattern tester for this project full of cool sewing details.
This style is described as a “chic utility jacket” inspired by vintage work-wear from France. This is an example of possible inspiration.
The French work-wear jacket was a durable, comfortable jacket optimal for a range of occupations and while it seems it was originally a male garment, this style has evolved into a unisex type of piece.
The Sienna Maker Jacket has features inspired by this style but there’s just so much more. There are three views and the common features for all of them are the crisp notched collar that can be buttoned at the neck as an option, slight dropped shoulder (very slight) and that it is unlined and meant for durable inside finishes.
Views A and B have deep hip pockets, a hidden bust pocket and a self belt with a D ring closure and differ in the length and the belt closure style. Length from the nape of the neck to the hemline is 36.4″ (92cm) and 30.5″ (77.4″), reaching mid thigh and the upper thigh respectively on the 5ft 6″ woman (167.5cm).
View C has a separate file in the pattern and is shorter in length at 22.5″ (57.1cm) and will reach mid hip. It also has more positive ease than the previous views. The optional sleeve pockets with button closure are an interesting feature and my absolute favorite is the back buttoned vent.
Fabrics recommended are medium to heavy weight wovens like denim, twill, canvas and heavy linen. I have chosen a medium weight navy linen for my project.
This is the first pattern that is available in sizes 0-30 as the previous size range was 0-20. The sizes charts are comprehensive including body measurements and the finished garments also include the shoulder, bicep and detailed bust, waist and hip for all the views. There is abundant positive ease throughout, Views A and B slightly less than View C.
I tested the size 0-20 draft and chose to make view C in a straight size 14. I made a muslin/toile in yellow cotton with the aim of focusing on checking the fit of the collar, the armscye to sleeve relationship and the shoulder width. In more fitted styles, I also focus on waist height (I have a short torso) and dart placement, but in this case, as the style is boxy, I didn’t have worries on the fit of the main body of the jacket. I am 5ft 8″ and usually only make length adjustments to lengths of sleeves. In essence, I should be also lengthening the main front and back by 1″ to account for the height difference, but, I prefer a more cropped jacket.
The whole sewing process was very enjoyable. I enjoy a project with details and steps that require precision. The diagrams are very helpful.
I will go over some general aspects of the construction.
The pattern has 5/8″ seams allowances unless otherwise stated in different steps of the jacket construction. I do appreciate the thought gone into determining what seam allowance will allow more precision during construction. I am a firm believer that different areas of a garment require different seam allowances and do this myself when I draft my own patterns from my measurements. The seam allowances utilized are 3/8″, 1/2″ and 5/8″. This is a mayor PLUS in this pattern, in my opinion. For example, the collar and facings use 3/8″ SA and that is excellent and allows precision in this critical areas.
The facings can be folded under by 3/8″ and top stitched or that seam allowance can be trimmed and the edges bias bound. This is the option I have chosen and my personal preference is not to top stitch facings.
The collar has the option of applying a button or snap in order to close the jacket at the neck and whilst I think this would be practical in colder weather, this is not a necessity for me. Quite the opposite! it’s too hot here and I would never want or need to close the jacket up to the top.
The optional pocket on the sleeves of view C is an interesting visual component and very unique. Saying that, they do feel unpractical and a tad bulky…. but pretty! I didn’t open the buttonhole and only stitched the buttons on the top. I have no intention on storing items in my sleeves. Here is a closer look.
The sleeve pockets have a lining that I cut with the same colorful fabric I made bias binding with. I was extra careful to under-stitch and top stitch accurately to keep the colorful pocket lining inside. The construction of the pockets is interesting and well explained in the instructions.
My favorite feature is the back buttoned vent. This is the feature that made me chose this version. View A and B have a simpler center back slit and that is fine, I always love a slit, but this vent with buttons is everything! I really really love this detail. The construction was straight forward. I decided to sew vertical buttonholes for practical reasons: my sewing machine does not enjoy horizontal buttonholes as they are sewn on the cross-grain. Hence, vertical is the preferred choice.
I enjoy the length of the jacket and while boxy, I don’t feel its boxy boxy. This is a side view:
On the full video review, I discuss and overview of the features, the differences between the views, my fabric choice, sizing and most importantly: The Up Close and SEW personal segment takes you into the nitty gritty of sewing. For this project I am sharing the pattern layout on less than the recommended amount of fabric, you can see my muslin on and I discuss fit and I am showing how to construct the back buttoned vent. Check out this video jammed packed with sewing goodness. Ah… and also, you can see the jacket on in movement.
Here are some styled photos. My preference is to wear close fitting styles under a boxy jacket. With my body type, it is important to have some definition on the hip area even if the waist is hidden by the jacket. I have paired the jacket with a self drafted stretch lace dress in beige and also with a flowery cotton sateen dress that uses the bodice of the Jessica dress by Mimi G, but attached is a self drafted skirt with some side ruching. There is a video about this dress on my channel if you want to know more about it.
The closer fitting dresses above the knee with the boxier jacket is a look I would totally love and feel comfortable in. Of course there’s the option of skinny jeans and pencil skirts….. but your friend can only take so many photos 🙂
I am very inspired to make the other views offered in this pattern, possibly with denim and another color linen.
I highly recommend this pattern for high doses of fun details and top-stitching!
DISCLAIMER: I was provided the pattern without cost, as a pattern tester, in exchange for sewing a muslin, providing detailed feedback on instructions and fit. I Purchased my own fabric.
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Categories: Pattern Reviews, Sewing techniques
