When I saw this pattern, I was immediately drawn to the different necklines and especially the neckties. The simple dropped shoulder of view A is as attractive for me as the short set in sleeves from view C. What I totally don’t see are the flounces attached to the sleeves in views B and D. Those are not my style at all, so I will ignore them. The fabric recommendations include my favorite types of wovens: Rayon challis, crepe, georgette and silk charmeuse.
View A and B have a deeper V neckline and the neckties are tied into a bow at bottom of the V. The dropped shoulders from View A are actually hemmed normally in the instructions. The hem is very curved. I know a normal hem will not have a smooth appearance, so I will hem with bias tape. View B has a flounce sewn at the sleeve edge and whilst feminine and “floaty”, this style can have the tendency of widening the chest and shoulders horizontally. This will not suit my body shape but it can suit the pear shape as it will help balance upper body volume. I decided to make View A with a crinkle chiffon I have been carrying around since the time I lived in New Zealand. It’s become one of those precious fabrics I hadn’t been able to cut into…. until now.
View C and D have a rounder higher neckline and separate pattern pieces. These views have a normal armscye and set in short sleeves. The keyhole opening makes the neckline “larger” allowing your head to fit in. I chose a gorgeous black chiffon with velvety dots that was sent to me all the way from the UK, by my friend Anna, who also runs a YouTube channel: You got me in Stitches. The fabric was perfect for the little black dress I had in mind.
The necktie for views A and B are long and wide, they have a center back seam and are cut ON THE BIAS. Talk about fabric hungry. I decided to cut the ties on the straight of grain instead. I mean, every other tie I’ve ever used before has NOT been cut on the bias. If I’d cut the ties as per instructions, I would not have had enough fabric for the blouse. By cutting the tie on the straight of grain, I was able to lengthen the blouse into a dress above the knee. Win!
The necktie for views C and D are narrower and shorter and are cut on the straight of grain! better… in my opinion. I wanted the perfect little black dress made with a beautiful chiffon with velvety dots. Knowing I had enough fabric, I set I out to lengthen view C by 13.5 inches (or 35cm), the same amount I lengthened the crinkle chiffon version. By lengthening these blouses into dresses, the fit will be “Shift dress style”: fitted at the bust and relaxed at the waist and hips.
In the video I made for my channel, I am going over how I chose the size to sew, an overview of the pattern pieces, how I lengthened the blouse to dress length and lots of sewing footage about both neckline types. Have a look below for all the practical sewing goodness!
Crinkle chiffon dress
I hemmed the dropped shoulder type “grown on sleeve” with bias tape. The shape is curved and the finishing would be so much smoother and pucker free than a normal turned up hem.
Chiffon with velvety dots Little black dress
Yes, I do need to make or buy a longer slip! The length of the dress is what I like though, it’s just so sheer he he. Setting in the sleeves was absolutely no drama and the length is also what I like on my arms.
I loved this pattern! Sewing the neckties was simpler and better than other similar styles I have sewn before. The facings make the process easier. I highly recommend this pattern if you see it around. I purchased the PDF version for instant happiness 🙂
DISCLAIMER: I purchased my own PDF pattern. I Purchased my own fabric for both versions.I DON’T have affiliate links in this post to the pattern company and the pattern.
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Categories: Pattern Reviews, Sewing techniques
