The Glissando is a new pattern from Love Notions patterns and it includes pants, shorts and a skirt. Designed for bottom weight zero stretch wovens. They all have similar features and the options make this a pattern that will go a long way. SO many possibilities. The straight pants and skirts are definitely styles I like and wear a lot.
I have written an extensive post already about the two Glissando crops I have made with linen fabric. You can see this post HERE and there you will see a pattern review, discussion about fabric, sizes, sewing considerations, pant fitting and styling. Embedded are also several helpful videos from my sewing YouTube channel.
The only significant change I made to the pattern was to convert the original exposed button fly to a zipper fly. This is personal preference, and it is easily possible even whilst still using the fly facing and fly extension pieces from the Glissando pattern. You can see this step-by-step tutorial in the video below and if you would like to try this option, you will be able to do it 🙂
In the video above, you will also see a detailed demo that simplifies cutting out the waistband that has three pieces, the sewing of the curved pockets on the font and patch pockets on the back. The video applies to making the skirt too!
I am inserting this extra information in this post about my Glissando skirt as an introduction because the top part of the Glissando pants and the Glissando skirt share the same features and I have also done a fly zipper front.
The Glissando skirt has the classic features that make it a style that is always wearable, no matter what the trends are. The curved waistband, curved front pockets, back patch pockets, center front seam and fly closure and straight style make this a garment you can wear for years to come. The exposed button fly is the closure method. I change mine to zipper fly.
I discuss best fabrics in the previous post about the Glissando and below you can see a diagram with a summary. I have chosen Linen for all of my versions. I live in Brazil and it’s the best fabric for my climate.
The Glissando skirt is fitted at the waist, with 1″ of positive ease. It has a contoured waistband and hits the natural waist. It is also meant to be fitted at the full hip and has about 1.5-2.5″ of positive ease, depending on the size.
The skirt will fall straight down from the hip. It is not A lined or meant to hug the thighs like a pencil skirt. The length is designed to finish right above the knees, and it is different with each size. For my size 16, the finished length is 23.5″ and that is perfect for my preference.
*If you want to shorten or lengthen the skirt, don’t do it at the hem. The hem has a 2″ hem allowance, and it has been trued to follow the shape of the skirt that tapers in just a little. Do this by adding or shortening about 3″ below the hip notch on the side seam. This way, you will keep the hem trued.
I did extensive flat pattern measurements on my pattern pieces. I drew the seam allowances and measured the hips, waist and the distance between the waist and the hips. There is a hip notch on the side seams for reference, and the waist of the skirt is meant to hit the natural waist.
The distance between the waist and the hips can differ with size, height and body shape. In general it is proportional to height, meaning the distance can be anywhere from 6″ to 8.5″. So if you are shorter than the 5ft 5″ height the pattern is drafted for, you might find that this distance is too large for you and this will cause excess fabric above the hips. You can shorten this area above or below the hip notch. Making a muslin will always help. I didn’t make a muslin for mine because I was content with the pattern, after measuring it, and knew it would fit me. I made no fitting adjustments.
- The seam allowance is 1/2″
- The sewing construction instructions are the same as the ones for the Glissando pants in these areas: waistband, pockets and fly.
- The back is cut on the fold and there is no center back seam in the original design. I like a center back seam on my skirts. I did this by placing the pattern piece 3/8″ away from the fold and sewing it there… to create a seam without changing the fit.
- Sewing the button fly or zipper fly (in my case) is so much easier with the skirt pattern! there is no crotch curve to deal with, like on the pants.
- I did two rows of parallel top stitching to highlight the features of the skirt. This will pop because I have a solid brown fabric. I use an edge-foot (it has a G on it) and a 1/4″ presser foot to get neat and straight top stitching. I like a longer stitch length for top stitching. This will ensure it will be seen more, decoratively.
- I like to sew a guide stitch on the edges on the patch pockets. This is a long stitch length ad helps press in neatly. I remove this easily before sewing the pockets on the back. The pocket edges are serged for longevity.
- The inner waistband also benefits from a guide stitch at the bottom as an aide to press in neatly.
- When I pinned the outer and inner waistbands right sides together, I added a 3/8″ strip of cotton selvedge to the edge before sewing. I will catch the selvedge in the seam on the inside of the waistband and this will keep the shape of the curved waistband stable. An extra step that goes a long way. See this done in more detail IN THIS VIDEO.
- The waistband matches the top of the pants perfectly, but manipulation of the pants while sewing might cause the pants stretching out and being larger than the waistband. Prevent this by stay stitching the waist edge as soon as possible after cutting the fabric. Or, better yet, fuse a 3/8″ strip of non-stretch interfacing to the waist edge, including the front pocket opening curve.
- The hem allowance is 2″ deep.
I love maximizing the fabric I have and getting the most from it. I had 2mt (2.2yd) of a beautiful brown linen fabric and I was set on making the Glissando crops AND the skirt. There had to be a way… and there always is! Not in theory, but with a few little fabric saving tips, anything is possible.
Cut the inner waistband pieces from a nice quality quilting cotton
I know we all have it and it is not always appropriate for garment construction, but it is perfect for inner waistbands! I did this for both the brown Glissando pants and the Glissando skirt. You would never know or see it from the outside.
*PLEASE pre-wash the cotton first, just as you pre-washed your main fabric. You don’t want your pieces shrinking later on!
Mark the right and left pieces before you remove the pattern pieces from the fabric. This saves so much fabric. A curved waistband uses more fabric than a straight waistband, but it fits so much better. I cut the outer waistband from the main fabric and it the interfaced layer.
To ensure I do not see the contrast fabric, under stitch the seam allowance towards the inner waistband as an extra step.
Cut the pocket Lining from a lightweight woven fabric
I cut my lining pocket piece from a poly satin fabric. This will reduce the bulk on the front leg. A lightweight cotton will also work. I would not use the main fabric to cut this piece. It is not seen when you put your hand inside the pocket and will be hidden behind the pocket bag on the inside.
Cut the pocket bag from contrast cotton + little hip piece
The pocket bag is a large piece. It need not be cut from the main fabric. Below you can see that I have drawn two green lines on it. The line on the top is the shape the curved pocket entrance will have. I traced the shape by putting the pocket lining piece on top. The second line is about 1″ below and this is the shape I will use to cut a small hip piece from the main fabric that will be sewn on to the contrast cotton pocket bag.
The little hip piece sewn on top of the cotton pocket bag can be cut from any random scrap left over you have from the main fabric. This is what will be sewn behind the pocket entrance. I sew this onto the WRONG SIDE of the contrast cotton pocket bag. This will ensure that the RIGHT PRETTY side of the cotton is sseen on the inside of the skirt. Serge the curved little hip piece and sew it on top 🙂
This little trick means that when you put your hand inside your pocket, the main fabric is there and it does not affect the external look. Only those who peek inside will know 🙂
I did not invent this. Jean sewing patterns (I have sewn over a dozen) and RTW jeans all have this feature. I just replicated this for the Glissando. The 100% cotton feels super soft on the skin.
These three tips mean that you will need less fabric for your projects. They will all have your own personal touch and a pop of color inside for your own viewing happiness. Win, win. This is the only way I could fit both the Glissando pants and skirt into only 2mt of fabric. This brings me enormous satisfaction and joy. One of my most important core sewing philosophies is that sewing can be done with the minimal amount of fabric possible.
So why would I not want lions, tigers, and zebras inside my pants and skirt? fun right? in all honesty, I am not the seamstress that collects a lot of quilting cotton. I don’t quilt. This was the only cotton I had in my stash.
To see this process step by step in video format, along with more fun sewing tips about the curved waistband and even hammering in a jeans’ button, visit my video below 🙂
This type of skirt can be worn with practically any style of top, and any length, from cropped to below the hips. Below I have paired it with my Harmony blouse (also from Love Notions) gathered neckline hack top. You can see more about this project in THIS VIDEO. I LOVE the red and brown combination and of course the red heels …. this curved hem and mid hip length is perfect.
For a less “loud look”, I have also paired it with a shorter linen tan color top that I refashioned. The tan heels are also a classic combination.
I love my Glissando skirt! I mean, obsessed and have many hack ideas for future projects. This pattern can be a base for many, many fresh looks and I am VERY EXCITED:
- Full front zipper closure. A long zipper tucked into the waistband and all the way to the hem.
- Create a yoke at the back, eliminating the dart partially
- Keeping the extra center back seam and adding a cool vent
- Creating a patch pocket for the front, instead of the curved pockets
I have a military green cotton twill and an embroidered chambray tucked away and saved for more Glissando skirts.
DISCLAIMER: I was provided the pattern without cost, as a pattern tester, in exchange for sewing a muslin, providing feedback on instructions and fit. I Purchased my own fabric for both versions.
I have affiliate links in this post to the pattern company and the pattern. If you click on these links, at no cost to you, I receive a small commission that helps finance my sewing, blog and Youtube channel.
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