Pattern hacks

2 fancy pants with slits & gathers. Phoebe (Pattern Union).

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Sewing pants is an activity that I enjoy, and it’s been a month since I made my last pair. I was itching to make some more with new patterns. I’ve had the Phoebe Freebie from Pattern Union for a while in my files and wanted to try it. I also had the Phoebe Flares and knew if I tweaked the Free pattern first, I could replicate the same on the Flares.

The Phoebe Freebie is a Jumpsuit, top & pants that could be FREE on the website with the code listed there. *You need to create an account. I am not an affiliate. The Phoebe Flares are and add-on and not free, but very well priced.

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The Phoebe is actually a collection at Pattern Union and they can all be mixed and matched as separates, jumpsuit, pinnafore maxi dress…. , you can see some of the patterns below….so many possibilities.

Phoebe Freebie:

  • This is the base of the collection
  • The top can be made separately or as part of the jumpsuit
  • The pants are wide legs and have no pockets
  • There is a high and low waist option
  • The waistband can be used separately with the pants or to attach the top on to make the jumpsuit.

Phoebe Flares:

  • They can be made as flared pants on their own
  • They can also be added on to any of the Phoebe Tops as a jumpsuit
  • Gathered side inserts are below the full hip. THIS IS WHAR DREW ME IN!
  • The waistband can be used separately or with the jumpsuit option

The pattern instructions mention some fabric types as suggestion. One of them is Linen and Cotton. I have not included these in the list above. I think they are too structured for the volume of these types of wide leg pants. This is my preference based on my aesthetics.

I chose rayon twill for my Phoebe Freebie and I chose 100% rayon for my Phoebe Flares.

I chose size 16. There are no finished garment measurements on the size cart. The Freebie and the Flares use the same size chart.

The tops in the Phoebe collection have a broader size range 0-26 AU and cup sizes.

I used the low waist option. The high waist is more appropriate when you want to attach the pants to one of the tops to make a jumpsuit. You will need the vertical ease to move around comfortably.

I added 3″ of length at the hem. The legs are straight, which makes this possible and not incorrect.

I shortened the front crotch curve by 5/8″ and lengthened the back crotch curve by 5/8″. The side seams are unchanged.

My mini series Let’s Sew Easy Pants on YouTube will be super helpful for your pants making journey. It’s packed with practical demonstrations of fitting issues and how to fix them on the pattern. Have a look! I promise it will help you.

Above you can see my general idea for the Phoebe Freebie.

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  • The side seams are straight, so I overlapped the seam allowances and eliminated the side seams
  • I folded the front leg in half and drew a line from top to bottom
  • I cut this line and this will be a seam on the center of each of my legs
  • I added 1″ seam allowance to this extra seam. I want an open slit from above the knee to the hem. 1″ seam allowance is enough to create a nice finish on the slits
  • I left 1″ hem allowance, that is the same as the 1″ seam allowance. This will allow mitered corners to be done easily

I have an extra exclusive video on my Patreon page for Safron and Orchid supporters with all the sewing of this hack.

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  • Seam allowance is 3/8″
  • The Phoebe Flares has a short side seam and a corner with a space that will be filled with a gathered insert on each leg.
  • This horizontal area will have the gathered piece, and I stabilized it with fusible interfacing. I am using a lightweight fabric and don’t want the gathers weighing down. Also, the corners will be snipped into, to sew the gathered insert, and I want the area reinforced.
  • I opted to use a yoga waistband instead of the original woven waistband with elastic provided by the patterns. You can see how to do this on THIS VIDEO.

To see the entire video review, look book and practicalities of making my vision come true, see the video about the Phoebe Freebie and Flares in my sewing channel.

To hear the video in PODCAST audio format on the go, visit my New Podcast. You can hear in different platforms shown below, or directly here.

Or listen right here!


I’d wanted a pair of pants like this for a long time! These are my equivalent to a long maxi skirt with slits. I don’t wear maxi skirts, but this…. YES.

I have paired my Phoebe freebies with my lace La Bella Donna top from Love Notions. I like the length of this top for wide leg pants. See the video about this top HERE.

I suggest putting your heels on, or the shoes you typically use, before hemming the pants. See mine? the hem is almost touching the floor.


The lightweight fabric is soft and flowy. The gathers on the side of the legs are below the full hip and do not create extra volume on the thighs.

This is such a unique design, and I know the details would show most with a solid. But the pants take up one length of fabric per leg, and this is the fabric I had available. I love them in print, just the same 🙂

I have paired my Phoebe Flares with my lace Isidro top from Itch to Stitch with a cami underneath. Simple and fitted on the top and hitting the mid hip.

I LOVED sewing these two pants. They are both unique and I am thrilled with the fit and the style. I’ll be making more for sure and recommend these patterns to confident beginner seamstresses.

My video on YouTube was done in collaboration with my friend Kristen from The Dahlia Sew-ciety. Check out her Cora Blouse and Phoebe Maxi, also from Pattern Union.

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DISCLAIMER:   I purchased fabrics for these projects.  I produce sewing content independently from pattern brands and share my unique way of sewing with you.  I don’t necessarily follow instructions rigidly. My opinions are honest, especially around fit and sewing techniques.


I spend a lot of my time sewing, filming/editing videos, writing and taking photos for both my Youtube channel and blog and if you love what I do and consider my work valuable for your own sewing, you can support me financially in a non-committal manner by purchasing me a ”coffee” through Ko-Fi here.  $5 gets me one cup of “coffee”, or how I call it: a zipper!

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