Pattern Reviews

My plans: “Go with the flow” capsule – purple collection. SEW BEAUTIFUL book (Kennis Wong). Part 1

This is the first ever “capsule collection” of sorts, that I attempt. I have a very free point of view to my sewing that means that I will sew what makes me happy and what gets me inspired in the moment. Planning squashes my creativity, and I have proved that over and over. However, I want to attempt a “plan” of sorts when I chose the fabrics for the 8 patterns in the new book SEW BEAUTIFUL. Make Stylish Handmade Clothing with Simple Stitch-and-wear Patterns by Kennis Wong.

The book SEW BEAUTIFUL by Kennis Wong is on Pre-order at the moment and will start shipping out the first week of December. Great value! Soft cover book is $24.99 and Kindle is $11.99

Tap on the photo to purchase SEW BEAUTIFUL through my affiliate link on Amazon US. CLICK HERE for information to purchase out of the USA.

  • 8 patterns totalling 18 variations
  • Easy to sew designs without closures (zippers, buttonholes)
  • Classic beautiful designs for woven and knit fabric
  • Sizes 00-20US
  • Paperback & kindle version

About my plans: I don’t intend on following any guide or set of rules to my “capsule collection”. I won’t have a limited amount of numbers for each of the styles or types of garment. I do plan to have them go together in a way that makes sense. The color palette I have chosen is: Black, White, Grey & Purple.

However, I give myself the freedom to sneak other colors in there too, as long as it also can be worn with at least 1 other garment from the collection. I need to keep my options open to what I feel the day I’m sewing. I am not a rigid person in my approach, and especially with sewing. I enjoy having fun and rigid plans don’t make it that fun for me… but I want to challenge myself in the choices of fabric.

SEW BEAUTIFUL. Make Stylish Handmade Clothing with Simple Stitch-and-wear Patterns by Kennis Wong was created 14 months ago and all the patterns tested, in 2019. At that stage, sizes 00-20US were included in the patterns for the book. This year, Itch to Stitch (Kennis Wong is the owner/designer ) has improved their size range to 00-40US in the latest patterns on the site.

I have chosen size 14 for all of my projects. The patterns are drafted for a B/C sewing bust cup size, but the styles are not too sensitive to need a full bust adjustment due to the design, drafting and wearing ease.

Each pattern has their own size chart and finished measurements chart. You will see that some designs only need the bust circumference to choose a size, or just the bust and hip, or just the hip. The styles are simple and easy to fit.

The only changes I predict I will make will be length adjustments because I am taller (5ft 8″) than the drafted height of 5ft 6″. I probably will need to lengthen dresses and sleeves. This will be easy with the shorten and lengthen lines that the patterns offer.

MORNINGTON TOP AND DRESS

Features:

The Mornington top and dress have a relaxed fit. The top reaches the full hip and the dress above the knee. These lengths are all customizable with the shorten and lengthen lines.

There is a center back seam with shaping. Both options are fully lined and clean finished. The V neckline is easy to sew with the lining fabric. You can see the sleeveless option and the flared sleeve option.

What catches my eye the most are the waist ties. They are too cute and you can wear them tied as fitted or as loose as you prefer. For sure the style can be sewn without them too, if that’s not your thing. I absolutely LOVE them.

Fabric and sizing:

My choices:

I will be making 3 garments, two dresses and one top! All sleeveless and some of them won’t be lined and will have an alternative bias bound finish.

  • One is chiffon and black / purple / grey tones. This one will be self lined (same fabric). It is still sheer and will need a slip underneath. I will use the lining technique in the pattern for a clean finish.
  • Bubble crepe dress in black and white and will be unlined. The neckline and armholes will be finished with self bias tape. I have made 1″ bias tape and will use a fun technique for the V shaped neckline.
  • Satin backed crepe hip length top. It will be a rich purple, a solid! I will line this one as per the pattern instructions.

Sewing to see on my channel:

  • V neckline bias binding technique
  • Easy clean lining technique on a sleeveless garment with a center back seam

TAKTSANG DOLMAN WRAP

Features:

The Taktsang dolman can be whatever you want it to be! A jacket, wrap top, cardigan and it all depends on your fabric choice. lightweight wovens or structured knits will work.

There are integrated 3/4 length dolman sleeves that are very easy to sew. The neckline is finished with interfaced facings.

This garment has a relaxed fit and reaches the full hip. There is a sash pattern and belt loops, or you can use your fave belts.

Fabric and sizing:

My choices:

I’ve chosen a black crinkle crepe with embroidery details and I want it to be a staple to go with everything in this collection and also everything else in my wardrobe.

I will finish the neckline with self-bias tape that will be visible, shorten the front and back by 2″. The Dolman sleeves will be shortened as well. All these changes to adapt to the fabric I’ve chosen and my hot weather context.

I will wear it open with no sash or belt loops. Just like a light layering piece.

Sewing to see on my channel:

  • Using the shorten lengthen lines to shorten a pattern
  • How to true the new short hem of the sleeves
  • How to stabilize the neckline before binding the edges

Hopeful plan:

If I have time, I’d love to make a wrap top, also without the long sash. I would have little shorter ties on the sides only. I’m still brainstorming on the fabric choice and it would be a print to be worn on it’s own and not as a layering piece.

PRAGUE TOP & DRESS

Features:

The Prague top and dress are hemmed at the hip and above the knee, respectively.

You can choose between a scoop or a V neckline, both finished with neckbands. The V neckline is overlapped.

The cold shoulder detail on the sleeve is also finished with a band.

The fit at the bust is semi-fitted and then relaxed at the waist and hips.

Fabric and sizing:

My choices:

I am making the top and the dress, both with short sleeves. I wish I had a nice appropriate purple knit, but I haven’t been able to find one yet.

  • Top will be a grey/white thin stripe double brushed poly fabric.
  • The dress will be black rayon spandex

Sewing to see on the channel:

  • Overlapped V neckband finish
  • Band finish on the cold shoulder sleeve
  • “Fill up ” the cold shoulder on the sleeve to make it sans “cold shoulder”

CARLSBAND CARDIGAN

Features:

The Carlsband cardigan has an uneven, high-low look that drapes on the front “waterfall” style. The centers of the neckline cool have mitered corners. The fit is relaxed, and you chose your size only with the bust measurement. This style would be a great gift idea for family… easy to sew and easy fitting.

You can choose between long sleeves or sleeveless. The sleeveles options is finished with easy to sew bands. The length is at the full hip and we can also modify it to your preference with the shorten/lengthen lines.

Fabric and Sizing:

My choices:

I am making 2 Carlsband cardigans!

  • One is a black/white herringbone look cotton jersey that is loosely woven. Because the wrong side of the fabric is seen on the front, I chose this fabric because I also like the look of the wrong side.
  • A purple solid Ponte Roma version is also one I am excited to sew. Depending on the fabric amount available, it might turn out sleeveles and I am very ok with that.

Sewing to see on the channel:

  • How to sew this interesting shawl collar
  • Stabilising the back neckline
  • Sewing mitered corners

FORTUNA JOGGERS

Features:

The Fortuna joggers are the stylish, comfy style we all need. There is a tapered leg option and a wide leg option. They are mid-rise and have an elastic waistband with a drawstring.

The classic jogger has front slash pockets with a woven detail. The wide leg option does not have a front pocket. Both have back patch pockets.

There is also a short option with a 4″ inseam. I would need to lengthen these at least 3″ for my height and preference.

Fabric and sizing:

My choices:

I plan to make the jogger and wide leg option.

  • The wide leg version will be made with black medium weight rayon french terry. The woven details on the back pockets with black linen.
  • The tapered leg jogger will be made with a mystery heavy structured knit that is black with thin white stripes. The woven details on the pockets will be made with light denim. I will leave the cuffs off at the hem.

Sewing to see on the channel:

  • Unwearable muslin & fitting adjustments
  • Sewing the pockets with woven details
  • Sewing the waistband, grommet & drawstring

CASTLEPOINT SKIRT

Features:

The Castlepoint skirt is a faux wrap skirt in two lengths; above the knee and long. Both have the overlap happen just above the knee.

There is a flat front and back elastic waistband. This makes the skirt pull on and super comfy.

Inseam pockets will probably make a lot of sewists happy he he. I opt out of pockets in my garments.

The fit is semifitted at the waist and hips and then straight down from the hips.

The wrong side of the fabric can be seen in this design, so make sure you like the look of the wrong side too.

The hem is curved and I will hem it with bias tape as an extra step.

Fabric and sizing:

My Choices:

Both of my skirts will be short.

  • Light denim in dark grey will be perfect and versatile for my wardrobe.
  • Extra special rayon jacquard with silver threads and a paisley type print. This is one of my precious fabrics I have horded from New Zealand, since 2010. The wrong side is pretty too.

Sewing to see on the channel:

  • Flat front elastic back waistband
  • Curved hem with bias tape

PALERMO TOP & DRESS

Features:

The Palermo top and dress is for woven fabric and depending on your choice, the style could be for cool and hot weather. I am most excited about sewing this one!

There is a center front seam with an opening at the neckline. The neckline that includes the raglan sleeves is elasticized, creating lovely gathers.

The long raglan sleeves are elasticized at the hem. The top reaches the full hip and the dress below the knee. The dress has a two tiered gathered feature.

There is a fabric sash option for the dress, or you can use a normal belt for waist definition.

Fabric and sizing:

Choices:

I am making both my versions with chiffon and with short sleeves. A dress and a top.

  • The top will be a crinkle chiffon in a purple/black print and I will make the raglan sleeves short. I will wear a cami underneath.
  • The dress with be a deep solid purple chiffon and I will also make the raglan sleeves short and the hem to reach above my knees. I will wear a black slip underneath.

Sewing to see on the channel:

  • Shortening the sleeve and trueing the hem
  • Sewing the gathered neckline

OROSI TOP & DRESS

Features:

The Orosi top and dress is designed for comfy knits. What I like the most is that the front waist line is slightly shorter in the center with a diagonal shape towards the side seams.

The gathered peplum or skirt will look amazing with a lightweight knit. The sleeves can be short or long.

The V neckline can be traditional or you can use the super unique scarf V neckline. I am strongly attracted to this one! I’ve seen nothing like it!

Fabric and sizing:

My Choices:

I have the fabric chosen for the dress and am still hunting for another for the top. I will probably end up making the top in solid black rayon spandex.

  • The dress will have long sleeves and the scarf neckline. I’ve chosen a black/white print ITY knit.
  • The top will probably be a black rayon spandex with a leather look jersey neckband to add some interest.

Sewing to see on the channel:

  • The scarf V neckline! I can’t wait to sew it.

To see the video and the fabrics up close and how they move, see the video that accompanies this blog post on my YouTube channel below 🙂

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As I mentioned, these are plans but they are not set in stone. I am leaving my options open for some spontaneous sewing too and something might pop up that is not mentioned here and that will not be in the chosen color palete.

I will have a lot of fun mixing and matching these together. Purple is one of my favorite colors and I have been collecting these fabrics for a long time with the aim of creating a collection of sorts….. no rules and just “going with the flow”.

I hope you follow along with this daily series both here on the blog and on the channel!

See you soon 🙂 and have a look at the book!

DISCLAIMER: The links to SEW BEAUTIFUL book are amazon affiliate links. I was a pattern tester for this book and received a complimentary copy in exchange for my feedback on instructions and fit. I purchased the fabrics for this series. I produce sewing content independently from pattern brands and share my unique way of sewing with you. I don’t necessarily follow instructions rigidly. My opinions are honest, especially around fit and sewing techniques.

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