I have a terrible habit of sleeping in whatever I can find. Typically, a horrid old t-shirt and even worse, one with the sleeves cut out messily. WHAT?! I know! I sew wonderful garments for myself to wear during the day and out of the house. My mum has been on my case about my bad habits for decades. Well, it’s time to go to sleep in beautiful pjs!
The Pine Cove Pajamas are a new release from Itch to Stitch. As soon as I saw the line art and the sample photos, I was ENAMOURED. This design is seriously beautiful and better yet, unique! super original. I have been a pattern tester and really enjoyed sewing 2 pairs for myself.
Features of the Pine Cove PJS
The Pine Cove Pajamas are designed for woven fabric, have a relaxed fit, slightly dropped shoulders and long sleeves. The back piece is cut on the fold.
The unique feature, and my fave, is the overlapped front band/collar. The closure is with ties on the sides and another pair of small internal ties. These are adjustable to the fit you prefer.
There is one patch pocket on the right hip and small slits on the side seams.
The pants are easy-to-sew pull on style with an integrated elastic casing. This means that there is no separate waistband. Only 2 pattern pieces here!
This is definitively a beautiful style to lounge around in AND to sleep in.
The traditional woven pajama with a notched collar, facings, piping and buttons is a huge NO NO in my book. Facings, bulky piping and buttons have no place in comfy sleeping. Seeing that the Pine Cove pajama was dramatically different was very exciting for me.
Best fabrics for the Pine Cove PJS
Depending on what you want, there are so many ways that the Pine Cove pajamas can work for you. From cozy flannel, flannel backed satin to lighter double gauze, chambray and cotton lawn. For an even lighter feel you can use satin and rayon.
The Pine Cove Pajamas can be great for summer or winter. All you need to do is change the fabric.
- Satin: I will make this Pine Cove pajama with short sleeves and the pants as shorts. Perfect for summer.
- Rayon twill: These will be my “winter” version. I found beautiful check plaid that looks like the classic flannel, but it’s not flannel (yay because I really dislike flannel). The pants will be a solid black, also rayon twill.
The available in sizes 00-40 US and is drafted for a B/C bust cup size.
Usually Itch to stitch offers bust cup sizes with woven patterns. This one does not have separate cup sizes. The fit is relaxed, and the style is not sensitive to requiring a full bust adjustment, as long as the full bust fits the circumference as per the body measurement chart.
I chose a straight size 14. The design is semifitted at the bust and roomy at the hips.
Personal Fitting adjustments
You can see a diagram of the simple length adjustments I needed for the rise of the pants, the length of the legs and sleeves.
Even though they are pajamas, it was important for me to measure the pants. I have a longer than standard rise and need to adjust every single pant from every single brand. These pants would not be the exception 🙂
These are very simple changes, and the shorten and lengthen lines available on the pattern facilitate these quick adjustments.
Sewing considerations for the Pine Cove PJS
- The seam allowance for this pattern is 1/2″
- The back piece of the top is cut on the fold
- I stay stitched the front and back neckline before sewing the shoulder seams
- If you are matching plaid or stripes, 1000 pins and needed
- The 4 ties are folded wrong sides together lengthwise and then the raw edges folded again inside. Like making bias tape, but these are on the grain line. Thet are edgestitched and the result is a flat neat tie. I prefer this to sewing a long tie and trying to flip it right sides out.
- The Collar has 4 pieces. 2 pairs. They have center back seams. Notches that match the shoulders and neckline along one long raw edge and along the other, slanted notches on the extremes.
- The ties are sandwiched between the collar pieces at an angle
- The collar is flipped right sides out and the ties come from within on both sides. This is what is sewn to the neckline.
- I sew these typed of collars in reverse: I put the RIGHT SIDE OF THE COLLAR touching the WRONG SIDE OF THE NECKLINE and sew. The collar is then flipped to the right side of the top. The topstitching can be done where I can see it on the right side of the garment.
- I suggest hand basting for precision.
- The hems are folded up twice by 1/2″
- The pants are very easy to sew. The casing for the elastic is folded in by 3/8″ and then by 1″. The elastic is threaded through, the opening closed then then the casing top stitched. You can see how to sew pants like this HERE.
The video on YouTube: how to sew the collar and ties
In my video you will see a comprehensive overview of the pattern and sewing footage that includes:
- How to shorten the sleeves and pants and true the hem for a smooth result
- Full step by step of the collar and ties. Lots to see! click below 🙂
Listen to the Podcast
To hear my video in an audio file to take with you on the go, my PODCAST is available on these platforms below 🙂
Or listen right here!
Let’s see my satin summer Pine Cove PJS
The Pine Cove Pajamas don’t include a short sleeve or a shorts version, but this was allowed during pattern testing. The important thing to consider is that we can’t just shorten the sleeves and pants and hem directly. Both pattern pieces taper in and the new hem allowance needs to be trued to shape. I show how to do this in the video above.
My sleeves have a 5.5″ length from under the arm and the shorts have a 6.5″ inseam. I added 1″ of hem allowance to both sleeves and shorts.
I am in my backyard outside under two mango trees and they are producing so much this year! the mangoes match the flowers on my satin Pine Cove Pajamas so why not pose with them 🙂
I would always want to sew the collar in a contrast to highlight the look. A full on print would disguise this lovely feature.
I would gladly share my fruit with you!
This summer version feels amazing and very luxurious. I would love to make another short set like this in rayon.
Let’s see my plaid winter Pine Cove PJS
I am not the world biggest fan of plaid. But since I found this amazingly soft rayon twill, the checks are not too big and there is a red-black-white color combination… I went for it! But only for the top. I am not ready to be head to toe in plaid. The pants are black rayon twil and so is the contrast collar piece.
The patch pocket is for decoration on the bias. Being cut this way makes it pretty but delicate, and I don’t want it to stretch out and sag over time. I interfaced it to help it lie flat against the top.
Matching the checks on this plaid was time-consuming, and I used more fabric than normal. My first goal was to have the red vertical stripe going down on the center of my body on the front and the back. Once that was all ok, I cut the pieces in a single layer to match the checks on the side seams. I did the same with the sleeves. I have an exclusive video on patreon with this process.
The side seams have a small vent that is finished very neatly inside.
I’m extremely proud of this Pine Cove Pajama. I went the extra mile with everything and don’t regret any of it. I can have the look of a classic pajama but with a fabric type that matches my lifestyle and weather.
Let’s see a mix! satin top with long pants
The Pine Cove Pajamas pants are made with black rayon will. They fit amazingly, and I could use them as outerwear too if I wanted. They will also pair with my short sleeve satin Pine Cove Pajama top. I made the black collar in the same rayon twill as the pant, so that this combination would also make sense.
Would I make these again? YES. I’d love to make some for my mum. She loves the feel of rayon twill too, and I know she’d really enjoy them. I want to lengthen the top to above the knee so I can wear it on its own and this top could definitively be a beautiful blouse too! not just a pajama.
DISCLAIMER: The links to the Pine Cove PJS are affiliate links. I was a pattern tester and had access to the PDF pattern in exchange for my feedback on instructions and fit. I purchased all the fabrics. I produce sewing content independently from pattern brands and share my unique way of sewing with you. I don’t necessarily follow instructions rigidly. My opinions are honest, especially around fit and sewing techniques.
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