Pattern hacks

Feeling good in a lined knit bodice. Margot Peplum (Love Notions). Extra V neckband.

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The Margot Peplum from Love Notions has had a sizing update and now included the full size range from XS to 5X. It has been a pattern I have enjoyed two times already, but funnily enough, I’ve always lengthened them into dresses. I’m just a sucker for dress over a top, all day, every day. I wanted to make another one, this time with special sewing features I had not done with this pattern before. A lined knit bodice with princess seams is the special content for today.

The Margot Peplum is $5 today Friday the 19th of February 2021 (60% OFF). This post contains my affiliate link. Thank you for using it if you like the style. Get your pattern HERE. Also, the little girl’s version of this pattern, the Maggie Peplum, is also $5 today.

Features of the Margot

The Margot is for stretchy knit fabrics and the bodice is fitted. You can choose between two styles of bodices: A regular bodice and a princess seam bodice. The waistline is meant to hit a little above the natural waist.

The peplum styles are three: Gathered, box pleated & swing. The gathered and pleated versions use the same pattern piece. The difference is how its sewn onto the bodice. The Swing style has its own piece.

There are various sleeve lengths: short, elbow, 3/4 and long.

My Choices: I always prefer the princess seam bodice. I have used the 3/4 length in the past and hacked the view to sleeveless twice.

Best fabrics for the Margot

Because the bodice is fitted and the drafting has negative ease, you need knit fabrics that will stretch minimally 25% horizontally. The bust will have about 2-3″ of negative ease and the waist about 1-2″.

I think medium-weight fabrics are best for the structure of the bodice and because it’s fitted. Very lightweight knits could be clingy and show undergarment lines through the fabric.

I have used cotton spandex an athletic knit with success. I would consider lining the bodice for ITY and rayon spandex.

Recommended fabrics: Cotton and rayon spandex blends, ITY, scuba and Ponte roma are mentioned as suitable.

Sizing discussion

The Margot peplum is available in the full size range now. From XS – 5X.

There is a standard bust and a full bust option available for both bodice types. If the difference between your high bust and full bust is up to 3″, the standard bodice is a good match. If it were 4″ or above, the full bust will probably provide more room and a better fit. This style has extra length added to the full bust piece.

I made a size XL this time around. In the past, I had made a size Large. I use the standard bust piece.

My previous versions of the Margot

I have a full detailed blog post about these two that I wrote previously. See it HERE. Here is a little snippet.

Print cotton spandex, longer pleated peplum

The princess seam bodice caught my eye as I’ve always appreciated the improved fit with these design lines, and I chose the pleated peplum option with 3/4 length sleeves. For once, I had plenty of the chosen fabric (miracles happen). This made the choice to lengthen the peplum into a dress length easy. At the end of the day, dresses end up being worn more in my lifestyle. I chose a medium weight printed cotton spandex in blue/orange tones. I measure the stretch to be around 40%.

Noting that the bodice style is described to hit 1″ ABOVE the natural waist on a 5ft 5″ woman and that I am 5ft 8″…. there was bound to be a length discrepancy on the bodice. Doing some flat measurements confirmed I needed to lengthen the bodice by 1″ to achieve the intended look. There aren’t shorten/lengthen lines on the bodice pieces, so I drew a line about 2″ from the bottom edge of all the pieces.

How to lengthen the Peplum to dress length

The gathered peplum piece has a shorten and lengthen line where I cut and spread apart adding 12″ or 25cm to the length while keeping the hem shape and curve. I cleaned out the side seams and kept the grain-line marks continuous here. The total length of this skirt ends up being 22″ and it includes 3/4″ for hem allowance. This is my preferred above-the-knee length for my height.

Video on my first version of the Margot

If you like to “see” practical sewing and pattern adjustments, you can visit my youtube channel and the video all about this project. You can see it on in action and I am sharing a cool neckline binding technique that works amazing for this type of medium weight knit. Have a look below 🙂

Margot bodice, mash with Sybil illusion skirt

I had a stripy dress in mind and chose an athletic type knit composed of Polyamide and spandex. Great stretch and recovery. The stretch is the same horizontally and vertically, and this feature makes it prefect for stripe play. I can use the stripes in both directions without compromising the fit of the garment.

I decided to make the bodice sleeveless, lengthen it to reach my waist as discussed prior, and cut the princess seams with contrasting stripe directions. I made the side panels have vertical stripes.

I only used the bodice of the Margot peplum for this version, and for the skirt, I mashed it with one of the options available in the Sybil Illusion skirt collection.

On the line art above, you can see 7 styles of skirts included in the Sybil Illusion skirt collection and I chose the gored skirt. It’s the first style shown on the bottom row. The seams were easy to match to the seams on the Margot Peplum princess seam bodice, and it only took a few tweaks to get them to be a perfect match.

Video about the Margot & Sybil Illusion mash up


You can see more details about this stripey dress in the video, all about the Sybil Skirts hacks I made for the Love Notions blog in 2019.

How to lengthen the bodice

After wearing my first Margot dress and noticing the constant pulling down of the bodice I was subconsciously doing, I’ve decided I prefer fitted bodices to reach my natural waist. For my comfort and preference, I will lengthen the bodice in two areas. This is to keep the proportion of the pattern pieces. This will make the bodice 1 3/4″″ longer to fit my body (Note: I am also 3″ taller than the drafted height of the pattern).

The first line is just above the bust notches on the princess seams and I added 3/4″ there. The second line is 2″ from the bottom edge of the pattern pieces and I added 1″ there. This keeps the original width of the bodice and fitting the peplum will be no issue. I strongly Don’t SUGGEST adding length to the bottom of the pieces. This will deform the bodice and the fit won’t be correct.

This is to fit y body and I share this to give you ideas. You might want to have the bodice reach your waist too.

Making a muslin for this bodice from scraps is a great idea. It will let you know where it lies on your body and you can go from there.

Lined knit bodice

I chose a colorful ITY knit for my dress this time and always knew the bodice would need to be lined. ITY for a fitted bodice does not feel or look nice. It’s thin and clingy. Two layers of it and it’s another whole different look and experience!

Cut two bodices. They can be from the same fabric. This what “self lined” refers to. If you don’t have enough of the main fabric to cut the bodice pieces twice, you can use another knit that has the same weight and that would be your lining layer.

When you have two bodice layers, you can enclose the waist seam while sewing them together and it will be wonderfully comfortable on the skin of your midsection.

These are the key points:

  • Sew the MAIN BODICE to the peplum, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER with a basting stitch within the seam allowance.
  • Place the first unit basted together INSIDE THE LINING BODICE.
  • Sew the LINING BODICE (it could be the same fabric or another) RIGHT SIDES to WRONG SIDE of the skirt.

The points above might explain how it’s done, but it’s nicer to SEE IT DONE. No worries, I’ve got you covered.

The video about sewing a lined knit bodice

To see the practicalities of lining the bodice, a review and to see the dress on, visit the fun video on my channel below.

Because I enclose the waist seam for comfort, you will have two raw edges on the top of the bodice at the neckline and armholes. You can meet them up neatly and baste the edges together and then treat as one piece to sew on your sleeves (if you are using them) and to finish the neckline with your chosen technique.

Scoop neckline to V neckline with a V neckband

The original scoop neckline of the Margot Peplum is lovely, and I have sewn it before. I like the depth and width it has, and I feel great with a neckline like that. But changing things is fun, and I changed the neckline to a V neckline. I drafted my own V neckband piece to match my new V neckline circumference. I used a black athletic knit for the neckband piece.

Video on how to change the scoop neck to a V neckline on the Margot

To see how I changed the neckline of the Margot peplum to a V and how I made the V neckband, see the video below because I used this pattern to film the demonstration.

How to sew a beautiful V neckband video

To see a video on how to sew a V neckline perfectly, see the video below.

Let’s see!

It’s still summer here in Brazil and I wanted to wear my colorful, happy dress now. Hence the sleeveless dress that is not official. I didn’t change the armholes. I used them as they are if you are using sleeveles. I not loose seam allowance, I bound the edges, making the binding exposed. I like the look of the black V neckband and binding on the armholes. I’m happy the bodice hits my waist where it is more comfortable for me.

I feel great with this version of the Margot Peplum. I keep making the pattern as a dress and I can’t help myself. The lined bodice feels soft. There are no serged edges of fabric against my skin. What I love the most about ITY, is the drape and how the skirt hangs and flows. And whilst it’s not ideal for the bodice, it’s ideal for the skirt. Lining the bodice gives you the best of both worlds: a more structured bodice that feels amazing AND a flowy skirt.

I’m happy!

The Margot Peplum is $5 today Friday the 19th of February 2021 (60% OFF). This post contains my affiliate link. Thank you for using it if you like the style. Get your pattern HERE. Also, the little girl’s version of this pattern, the Maggie Peplum, is also $5 today.

DISCLAIMER: I was provided the pattern without cost, as a pattern tester, in exchange for sewing a muslin, providing feedback on instructions and fit. I Purchased my own fabric for both versions.

I have affiliate links in this post to the pattern company and the pattern. If you click on these links, at no cost to you, I receive a small commission that helps finance my sewing, blog and Youtube channel.

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