I think for the most part, pants are considered harder to sew and fit than garments we sew for our upper half. I think getting started on making trousers can be hugely satisfying and there is a simple style out there that is perfect to start with. I’m referring to: two pattern pieces (front and back leg), a turned under casing for an elasticated waist and a simple hem. No zippers, no waistbands. These types of pants are also easier to fit to our bodies and can give us that positive push to continue.
I have this pattern available, but there are many others that are similar. Simplicity 1668 is a pattern that has a knit jacket/cardigan, a top/dress and pants/shorts included.
I normally do not have access to big 4 commercial patterns and this one was sent to me by a lovely friend in an envelope. I really LOVE patterns that include so many garments and options and consider them super valuable. I decided to make view C and D, which are the long pants and shorts.
Features of these easy to sew pants / shorts
- 2 pattern pieces
- Elasticated waist
- No separate waistband
- Simple hem
- Straight leg style
Two months ago, I made a straight size Medium for my mum and they fit her perfect right out of the envelope! She’d been coveting this Rayon challis from my stash for years and had always dreamed of this style of wider leg flowy pant.
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The Sizing
This pattern has XS-XXL sizes in the envelope going up to a waist of 41″ and hips of 50″. This style of pant with an elasticated waist means that the most important body measurement to consider is the full hip circumference, when choosing a size. My hips put me in the size Large range (42-44″, mine is 44″) and the finished hip for this size is 45″. 1″ of positive ease at the hip would make this more fitted than what I’d like, but considering I’ll be sewing with 100% rayon (or viscose), and that this fabric tends to “grow”… I went ahead and made my shorts muslin in Size Large.
Before making the muslin, I marked the seam lines on the pattern and measured the front and back crotch lengths. I was confident the front length was fine, compared to my front rise, but the back was short. I wanted to assess how short with the muslin on my body. The first muslin told me I needed to add 1″ to the back rise, and no changes were required on the front.
The second muslin (test garment)
For the second muslin, you can see above, I made the modifications I needed and I was happy with the overall fit. I only wanted to make the shorts 2″ longer.
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I have filmed a video on my Youtube Channel about this pattern that includes a review and practical footage about the pattern fit adjustments and a FULL STEP by STEP sew along to these pants. The tutorial was filmed with the new-to-sewing-pants seamstress in mind.
I think this style of pant is the easiest to construct and fit and are great as an induction to pants making. There are many other patterns with a similar style and features and the steps shown in my video will be applicable too 🙂
The Shorts
I made the shorts with rayon twill and they turned out very comfortable.
I think I see many more of these shorts in my wardrobe!
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The Pants
I made the pants with 100% rayon (or viscose) and was careful with the placement of the flowers to avoid a large one on the center of the crotch.
This pattern is out of print, but if you can get your hands on it, I highly recommend it. Now to make the top and the dress!
You can apply the sewing steps in the video to any similar pant style pattern that you might have, but haven’t tackled yet. Happy pants sewing!
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DISCLAIMER: I was gifted the pattern by a friend. I Purchased my own fabric for both versions.
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Categories: Pattern Reviews, Sewing techniques
I did not see that you lengthened side seam on front piece, i want to copy yours completely, but the side seams don’t match, My back needs to be longer too, so I will try to do it with lenghthening the front side seam at the top, grading to nothing at center front.
I only lengthened the center back seam of the pants, tapering to nothing on the side. I only needed to adjust the center back. This leaves the front unmodified (because the front is fine), so nothing needs to be done to the side seams from both the font and the back. I did show this in the video about this pattern. Lengthening the front is not necessary for my body and the side seams totally match.
i see my error i added ti did instead of center back! haha here i go again one more adjustment>